The performance signs you may notice are slow acceleration, hard cold start, rough idle, or misfires. The most common symptoms of a bad intake air temperature sensor are engine performance issues and a check engine light on the dashboard. Too many people rely on fault codes instead of actually testing and diagnosing the car.Conclusion Symptoms Of A Bad Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IAT) Before even opening the hood I determined that there was nothing wrong with the catalyst but that the car needed a coolant temperature sensor. Scanned for codes, found P0420 indicating the catalytic converter was operating below efficiency. Last week a car came in with a check engine light on. Do you replace the thermometer (O2 sensor) or look for the cause of the thermometer reading high? You check your temperature and the thermometer (oxygen sensor) reads 104. You have a fever (your warning light is on). Your O2 sensor code (no sensor activity) could be caused by a blown fuse, a broken wire, a brake booster leaking vacuum, a faulty mass air flow sensor, a worn out sensor, a coolant leak inside your engine, or any number of other things. If the sensor reports something that is out of the ordinary the car turns on the engine light to say “Hey, something’s not right.” The car sees that information and uses it to keep running properly. A sensor just takes a measurement of something and reports that measurement to the car. The shop I took it to was an independent, the guy had me start it, and he went to the rear & put his hand in front of the muffler, and of course there was black spots all over his hands) and then told me its the CC, and that I probably need to replace the other 2 O2 sensors along with the ones I have already replaced bc they are probably clogged up again.Ī fault code tells you that either a sensor is reporting a condition that is not normal, or that a particular system on the car is not functioning as designed. The other ones were for the O2 sensors & coil pack (like, p0134 heated oxygen sensor Bank 1 sensor 1). P1320 - Ignition control signal circuit malfunction The last time we took it to Orielly’s (I assumed it was diagnostics since OBD stands for on board diagnostics) the codes were… So far we have changed the front 2 O2 sensors, all the spark plugs, 3 coil packs, and cleaned the MAF sensor. It usually runs “okay” when it’s cold, but once it warms up, it sputters, has problems idling, black strong smelling exhaust, it gets maybe 10-15mpg, when you accelerate sometimes it sputters. Not to mention that the sensors looked pretty crusty, and the harness had gotten brittle over the years While I had the intake off, I replaced both knock sensors and the subharness. There is always those few seconds when you remove the manifold, before you have a chance to cover up the ports No matter how well you vacuum an engine before removing an intake, something always seems to fall in. I spent quite a bit of time, with a flashlight and mirror, to make sure I got all of them. ![]() I used a vacuum cleaner and needle nose pliers to retrieve them. The funniest part, was that when I removed the intake, a bunch of acorns fell on top of the valves. The out of range MAF code was also caused by the intake leak.Īfter fixing that, and verifying the repair, I threw a new set of plugs at it, because it was due by mileage. But it was also causing misfires with a cold engine, before they expanded somewhat when hot. The real problem was the flat intake gaskets. We agreed that I would fix his truck in my garage, at my house, on the weekend. No coolant running through the plastic manifold, by the way I quickly verified my suspicion that the intake gaskets were flat. But there was also a MAF code, saying it was out of range, or something like that. I hooked up my scanner and retrieved a bunch of misfire codes, as well as lean codes. asked me to check out his truck, because it sounded funny, and it wasn’t running rightĪnyways, it was quite obvious that he had a gigantic vacuum leak, because it made a whooshing sound.
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